In Berlin, Richert Beil’s Fall/Winter 2025 show, “MUTTER,” told a story of emotional and physical exhaustion through the lens of a strained mother. Steeped in history, the spectacle took place inside the cement walls of Fichtebunker, an abandoned bunker in the middle of Kreuzberg that became a hub for mothers and their children during World War II, echoing the line’s sartorial exploration of the pressures to nurture, produce and perform as a parent.
This collection, Beil wrote, was a “response to the demands of contemporary existence,” and it was also a “call to acknowledge the cost of invisible labor, the emotional toll of constant performance and consumerism, and the urgent need to reclaim authenticity and empathy.”
There was a strained nature to the line’s tailoring. Tight tank tops strictly contained long-sleeve button-down shirts; long-sleeve dresses enveloped their wearers’ heads, as did cocooning leather balaclavas. Bulky leather skirts concealed wide-legged pleated trousers, and double-breasted overcoats descended all the down to the shin for protection.
One woman’s pregnant belly was left exposed in a silky one-piece, and another carried two jugs of milk under a transparent raincoat. In the end, three models, dressed in all black, carried wilting metal flowers and a harness-clad purse while circling the bunker’s central sculpture of a holy angel, symbolizing “shelter and care.”
At Fichtebunker, Biel created a poignant reflection of “the protection we all seek in the midst of today’s global political crises.”
See Richert Beil’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Berlin Fashion Week coverage.
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