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In the 16th century, Antwerp, Belgium, with its busy docks along the river Scheldt, was a booming center of trade and one of Europe’s most influential cities, attracting artists, intellectuals and entrepreneurs. In 1576, Christophe Plantin ran a prestigious printing business (one of the continent’s largest) in the center of the city, a half-mile from where, a few decades later, the painter Peter Paul Rubens would build his own studio and semicircular sculpture hall, modeled after the Pantheon. Over the years, while other long-established port cities like Venice and Barcelona evolved into throbbing tourist centers, Belgium’s second city largely kept far away from the spotlight, yet it’s always quietly maintained a reputation as a place for innovation and creative expression. In the 1980s, it became an important fashion hub with the emergence of the Antwerp Six: a group of young designers, including Ann Demeulemeester, who had been educated at the city’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
Even now, despite its relatively small size (the population is about 545,000), Antwerp is still home to a cluster of people at the top of their creative fields, including the visual artist Luc Tuymans and Pieter Mulier, the creative director of the fashion brand Alaïa. “I can see the port from one side of my apartment and Antwerp’s historic center from the other side,” says Mulier. “Those views allow me to understand the richness of this city, not just financially but culturally.” Lately, there has been a renewed sense of dynamism in Antwerp, with a slate of recently opened restaurants, bars and hotels, including Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp, a luxury resort housed in a converted monastery, as well as ambitious new architectural projects underway in the southern part of the city led by Tokyo’s Shigeru Ban and others. The art scene is also getting a boost now that KMSKA, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp, has reopened after its decade-long renovation. Here, Mulier and four other notable locals share some of their favorite spots in the city, from beloved relics to new diversions.
The Insiders
The Costa Rican Cuban painter Ileana Moro lived in New York City, Los Angeles and Mexico City before moving to Antwerp in 2022.
The fashion designer Pieter Mulier, the creative director of Alaïa, divides his time between Antwerp and Paris.
Karen Shu, the chef and owner of the plant-based restaurant And/Or and a former chef de cuisine at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ABC Kitchen in New York, moved to Antwerp in 2021.
The architect and designer Vincent Van Duysen, who founded his firm in Antwerp in 1989, has designed a number of buildings and interiors in the city, including those of the hotel August in 2019.
The interior designer, gallerist and antiques dealer Axel Vervoordt is known for prominent design projects throughout his hometown, as well as international ones.
Illustrations by Richard Pedaline
Sleep
“For a small city like Antwerp to have something as high-end as the Botanic Sanctuary hotel is quite astonishing. The level of everything here, from the restaurants to the service to the rooms, is unbelievable. They took a very long time to do it and had quite an eye for detail. That’s very Flemish. We take a lot of time for things.” (Rooms from about $590 a night.) — Pieter Mulier
“August was once a military hospital and Augustinian cloister. The high ceilings and old convent windows have so much charm, and I love the way the garden is set away from the street so it feels completely private. It’s perfect for an aperitif or drinks after dinner.” (Rooms from about $190 a night.) — Karen Shu
“Hotel Julien is a very welcoming and charming townhouse located in the city center. The aesthetics belong to the culture of Antwerp: minimal, elegant and historic, but also modern.” (Rooms from about $225 a night.) — Vincent Van Duysen
Eat and Drink
“Osaka is a special place — the people, the atmosphere and the design. Inside the surfaces are all stainless steel, very futuristic. The natural-wine list is exceptional, and the oysters are really good. In the summer, people sit outside on the terrace.” — Ileana Moro
“Tazu is my favorite cocktail bar. It’s gorgeous, and Julian Youssef, the head bartender, is a master cocktail curator and can make you a drink depending on your mood.” — K.S.
“Restaurant Veranda is very Antwerp, but it also has a bit of a creative Brooklyn feeling. The interiors are simple and understated, and the chef Davy Schellemans makes great seasonal food with the best ingredients. ’t Fornuis is a rustic Flemish place with heavy wood interiors. It’s [an aesthetic] I wouldn’t normally connect with, but the food is incredible. It’s Belgian cuisine with a slightly Mediterranean touch. Sir Anthony Van Dijck is in the heart of the oldest part of the city, where Axel Vervoordt started his career. You have to ring a bell and someone opens the door for you. And then you enter this beautiful place designed by Axel.” — V.V.D.
Shop
“Houben is one of the most iconic multibrand stores in Antwerp. The couple who own it have a very good eye, and the shop has been going since the ’80s, when they were selling Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. I still visit them regularly.” — P.M.
“Antwerp is very much about fashion, from Ann Demeulemeester to Dries Van Noten, but my favorite exclusive place to window shop is Verso. It’s so chic, with a mix of designers, from Dior to Vince.” — K.S.“Het Modepaleis is the flagship store of Dries Van Noten, one of my favorite Antwerp designers, who’s also a close friend. His collections are inspired by artworks, the fabrics are very original and distinguished (both for men and women).” — Axel Vervoordt
Take Home
“I’m obsessed with bed linen. Marie-Marie sells luxurious linens, and there’s no end to the options. It has its own line, which is of an unbelievable quality.” — P.M.
“Graanmarkt 13 [designed by Van Duysen] is a cabinet of wonders. It’s a place to discover things. Everything that the co-founders Ilse Cornelissens and Tim Van Geloven choose, whether accessories or objects or clothing, is one of a kind.” — V.V.D.
Explore
“The art park at the Middelheim Museum is one of the most beautiful sculpture parks that I’ve ever seen. It has an excellent, diverse collection — you can find everything from a Rodin sculpture to an Ai Weiwei, and there’s a nice cafe. Located in the harbor neighborhood Het Eilandje, CASSTL functions as a hybrid of an artist-run space and a gallery. It was founded by Luc Tuymans and the artist duo Carla Arocha and Stéphane Schraenen. They promote noncommercial projects, including performances and installations.” — I.M.
“The Kanaal project — an industrial complex with residences, offices and art spaces [including the Axel Vervoordt Gallery] outside Antwerp — was imagined and developed by Axel and his family; you just get absorbed by their personal taste. It’s a complete universe. You go from one space, such as the Anish Kapoor installation, to another, such as a vast gallery of historic sculptures, and all throughout you travel from dark to light. The whole complex plays with the light of Belgium. The Museum Plantin-Moretus is the house and workshop of the 16th-century printer Christophe Plantin. There’s a beautiful library there.” — P.M.
“If you appreciate architecture and want to discover Antwerp from another era, you have to walk through the Zurenborg neighborhood. I love the Art Nouveau buildings.” — K.S.
“Peter Paul Rubens contributed to the decoration at St. Charles Borromeo Church. It’s from the early 1600s, and the interiors are exquisite. Sometimes I go there by myself. It’s walking distance from the city center. You follow small, narrow streets and then suddenly it opens up to a square, one of my favorites in the city. Everything about it is very poetic. KMSKA, or the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp, has an incredible collection of Belgian painters and a very nice grand cafe. Also, I love the water sculpture at the front of the museum that was created by the artist Cristina Iglesias. The bottom of it is a bas-relief of a bed of leaves in cement, and the water goes in and out like a tide.” — V.V.D.
These interviews have been edited and condensed.
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